With the steady rise of gold prices and a cultural shift towards fast fashion (or in this case – “fast jewelry”), customers have been looking for cheap alternatives to solid gold jewelry. However, the longevity of these items can vary greatly, depending on the type of plating used. Let’s look at the differences between gold-plated, vermeil, gold-filled and solid gold jewelry, to help you make an informed decision before your next purchase.

Understanding Microns

If you have purchased gold plated jewelry before, you might have come across the term microns. Microns describe the thickness of the gold plating that is applied to the jewelry piece. 1 micron equals 0,001 mm and the higher the number of microns, the longer your item will last. The problem however is, that many brands don’t disclose this information, which makes it difficult to know the durability before purchase.

Gold-Plated Jewelry The least durable but most affordable option is gold-plated jewelry. The plating can be anywhere between 0,1 and 2,5 microns thick. Due to such a thin layer, the gold wears away quickly and exposes the base metal underneath. This is when our fingers or ear holes turn green due to the copper or brass used as base metal. On average, gold-plated jewelry can last up to six months but can tarnish sooner than that.

Gold Vermeil Whenever you see the label gold vermeil (pronounced “ver-may”), the base should be sterling silver and electroplated with a 2,5 microns thick layer of gold. In the US, vermeil is a protected label, whereas in Europe it’s not. Even though gold vermeil has a thicker layer than gold plated, it will wear off eventually. With proper care (avoid water, lotions and perfumes) gold vermeil can last you up to a year if not longer.

Gold-Filled Jewelry Gold-filled jewelry is often confused with gold-plated and vermeil, but it is significantly more durable. Instead of being electroplated, gold-filled jewelry has a thick 5-micron layer of gold that is pressure-bonded to a base metal, making it much more resistant to wear. Because of this bonding process, gold-filled jewelry can last up to 10 years or longer with proper care.

Solid Gold After many years of disappointments with plated, vermeil, and gold-filled jewelry, I’ve come to the conclusion that solid gold is the best choice for longevity and value. Unlike plated jewelry, solid gold does not wear away, tarnish, or cause skin irritation. Solid gold comes in many variations, from 8-karat gold all the way to 24-karat gold.

Our approach

At Hardtwein, we choose to work with 14-karat gold because it offers the perfect balance between durability, color and price. 9-karat gold, which contains only 37,5% gold, is more prone to tarnishing and oxidation due to its high percentage of base metals. Meanwhile, 18-karat gold is softer and scratches more easily, making 14-karat gold the perfect middle ground for everyday wear.